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How much does it cost to drill a new well in NJ?

Drilling is sold by the foot, so the price turns on how deep the dirt sits over the rock, and nobody knows that until the rig is on your lot. What you get up front is a per foot rate plus a list of fixed items. Don does not own a rig, so he has no reason to sell footage.

Call 973-853-1550 Talk to Don or one of his techs. No charge for the conversation.

Why nobody can quote you a well over the phone

A well is the one thing on a house that gets priced before anybody knows how big it is. Drilling is sold by the foot, and how many feet you need is decided by the rock, not by the contractor. In the northern New Jersey highlands a typical residential deep rock well lands somewhere between 300 and 600 feet. We have seen plenty come in at 200 and plenty run past 700. Two houses on the same street can differ by 250 feet.

That's why an honest well estimate is a per foot price plus a list of fixed items, not a single number. You'll see a rate for drilling, a separate and higher rate for casing, and then line items for the permit, the pump, the tank, the trench and the water test. Multiply the footage, add the fixed parts, and you have the job. Anybody handing you one flat price before drilling is either padding it heavily or planning to come back with a change order.

What follows is what those lines actually are and what each one runs in this part of the state. Treat every figure as a range. Steel prices move, depth moves, and the distance from the wellhead to your basement moves. The only number that means anything is the one written after somebody walks your property.

Every line on the estimate

Permits come first. New Jersey requires a well permit through the NJDEP before a bit turns, filed by a licensed New Jersey well driller, and most townships want their own permit and inspection on top of it. It is one of the smaller lines on the estimate, but it is not optional and it takes time. Your contractor pulls these. A well drilled without them is a problem you inherit at closing.

Mobilization is getting a drill rig, a support truck and a crew onto your lot and set up over the spot. It is a real line item, and higher if the rig has to work a steep or wooded site, if trees have to come down, or if mats are needed to keep a 60,000 pound rig out of your lawn.

Drilling itself is priced per foot of open hole. Steel casing is the expensive part, at roughly double the per foot rate of open rock, because you're paying for the pipe, for driving it, and for the fact that casing footage is slower and harder on equipment than open rock. Grouting the annular space around the casing is required and is either included or runs a few hundred dollars.

Then the water system. A submersible pump with the drop pipe and wire to reach it is priced by depth and horsepower, since a 500 foot setting needs more pipe, more wire and a bigger motor than a 200 foot one. A pitless adapter, which is the frost-proof fitting that takes water sideways out of the casing below the freeze line, is a few hundred. Wiring, disconnect and control box, priced by the run and the panel work. A pressure tank installed with the tee, switch and gauge, sized to the pump. The trench from the well to the house, with the water line and wire in it, is priced by the foot, so a well 40 feet from the house is a different bill from a well 300 feet up the driveway. Disinfection and the required potability test close it out.

Why the highlands cost more than the rest of the state

In the south and center of the state, wells are drilled into sand and gravel aquifers and the whole hole gets cased with plastic. Up here the water is in fractures in the bedrock, and getting to it means punching through glacial till first. Till is what the last ice sheet left behind: clay, sand, and boulders the size of cars, all mixed together and all unstable.

That overburden will not hold a hole open, so steel casing gets driven from the surface all the way down through it and seated into competent bedrock. However deep the till is, that's how much casing you buy. In parts of West Milford and Ringwood you hit rock at 15 feet. Across a valley in Vernon or Hardyston, the till can be 80 or 100 feet deep. The rock is at the same elevation for both houses, but one owner is buying 25 feet of casing and the other is buying 110.

Casing is the most expensive foot in the hole, at roughly double the cost of open rock drilling. So the single biggest swing in what a highlands well costs is not how deep the water is. It's how deep the dirt is on top of the rock. That's also the number nobody knows until the rig is running, which is the honest reason a written estimate here carries a per foot casing rate rather than a fixed total.

Nobody can promise you gallons per minute

Drilling buys a hole. It doesn't buy water, and no licensed driller in this state will guarantee yield, because in fractured rock the yield depends entirely on which cracks the bit happens to cross. You can drill 550 feet of solid gneiss and get 3 gallons a minute, and your neighbor can hit a good fracture at 180 feet and get 25. Both wells are drilled correctly. That's the geology, not the workmanship.

A 3 to 5 gallon a minute well is normal up here and it runs a household fine, because a well is not a faucet. It's a storage column. A 6 inch well with 400 feet of standing water holds close to 600 gallons in the casing before the pump ever gets near the bottom, and it refills all day and all night at whatever the fractures give. What matters is not the instantaneous rate but whether the daily recovery covers the daily use.

When a well comes in low, the answer is not to drill another hole and hope. It's to set the pump deep to use the whole column, add a low water cutoff so the pump shuts itself down before it can run dry, and if the numbers are truly tight, add a storage tank with a booster so the house draws from stored water while the well trickles into it overnight. Those solutions cost a fraction of a second well and they work. Drilling again is a gamble with the same odds you just played.

When a new well is actually the right answer

A new well is the right call when there's no well at all, when the existing one is a hand dug or driven shallow well that keeps failing or keeps failing its water test, when the casing has collapsed or corroded through, or when the well sits somewhere it can't legally or safely stay, such as too close to a septic field. Contamination that treatment can't handle is the other clear case.

It's the wrong first move on a well that simply doesn't make enough water. Three cheaper things get tried first. Lowering the existing pump is a fraction of a new well and often gains real storage, since a pump set at 200 feet in a 400 foot well is ignoring half the water in the hole. Deepening the existing well, running the rig back down the same casing, costs the per foot drilling rate with no new permit, no new casing and no new pump, so it's a fraction of a new well.

Hydrofracturing is the third. Water is pumped into the sealed borehole at high pressure to open and clear the existing fractures, and it costs a small fraction of drilling a new well. It's not a sure thing, but on a low-yield rock well it succeeds often enough to be worth trying before spending 25,000 on a hole that might come in at the same 2 gallons a minute. Any contractor who jumps straight to a new well without pricing these out is selling the biggest ticket instead of the right one.

Who actually does what on a new well

Ackerman does not own a drill rig. New Jersey requires the hole to be drilled by a licensed well driller, and that is a separate trade with separate equipment. What we do is everything from the water up: we bring in a driller we have worked with for years, we are on site while the hole is made, and then the pump, the drop pipe and wire, the pitless, the trench, the pressure tank, the wiring and the disinfection and testing are ours.

That split matters more than it sounds. On most new wells the homeowner ends up holding two phone numbers and a gap between them, and when the pressure is wrong six months later each side points at the other. Here there is one number. We specified the pump for the well that actually got drilled, we set it, and we own how the water behaves at your tap.

It also means we have no reason to sell you footage. A contractor who owns the rig makes money per foot. We do not, so when the honest answer is to deepen the well you already have, hydrofracture it, or just lower the existing pump, that is the answer you get.

The all-in number, and what changes it

Add it up and a complete residential well in Passaic, Sussex, Morris or northern Bergen County, meaning drilled, cased, grouted, pumped, wired, tanked, trenched to the house, disinfected and tested, is the largest single item most well owners ever buy. Shallow rock and a short trench put you at the bottom of that. Deep till, deep water and a long run up a driveway put you over the top of it.

The parts that move the number most, in order: casing footage, total depth, distance from the well to the house, and site access. Nothing else on the list is big enough to change the outcome much. If somebody quotes you far under that range for a highlands rock well, look at what got left off, because the permit, the grout, the pitless, the tank and the trench are real costs that have to appear somewhere.

We would rather walk your property, look at where the rock outcrops, look at your septic and your setbacks, and look at what neighboring wells did. Then you get the driller's per foot rate and our number for the water system, on one page, before anybody starts. Call 973-853-1550 and we will come look. The site visit is how you get a real number, and everything before it is arithmetic on a range.

Want someone to just come look at it?

Ackerman has been doing well drilling and new wells in Sussex, Passaic, Bergen and Morris Counties since 1952. Wells are all we do.

Call 973-853-1550

More about well drilling and new wells

Published by Ackerman Pump Company, Hewitt NJ. General guidance about wells in this part of New Jersey, not a diagnosis of yours. Call 973-853-1550 and we will tell you what is actually happening at your house. Updated 2026-08-24.

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